Cartology 2023, Alheit Vineyards
Cartology is a vinous exploration of Cape heritage.It’s intended to be a picture of the Cape seen through the lens of her old vineyards in a given vintage.The cuveé is composed of rare and extraordinary parcels of mature dryland bushvines of heritage grapes, namely Chenin Blanc and Semilllon. These grapes have been planted in the Cape for centuries. Cartology 2023 is 94% Chenin blanc and 6% Semillon. The Chenin comes from Alheit’s parcels in the Skurfberg, Piekenierskloof, Malmesbury, Paardeberg, Bottelary, False Bay and Tygerberg. The Semillon comes from the old La Colline block in Franschhoek. Wild fermentation took place in a combination of cements eggs, old foudres, and old barrels of various sizes.The fermentation of various parcels lasted anywhere between 3 weeks and 11 months. The wine was kept on its lees for around 12 months, then rested in tank on fine lees without fining for a further five months prior to bottling.
Perfect to drink now to 2032+.
Aerides Xynisteri 2023, Makarounas Vineyards
Makarounas is a family winery located on the beautiful village of Letymbou, a region with a long tradition in vine growing this is located 14km east of the city of Paphos, on the west coast of Cyprus. Makarounas family have a viticultural history dating back four generations in the region. However, Theodoros Makarounas started this winery in 2016, after completing his studies in Oenology and Viticulture at UC Davis, with the support of his parents Kostas and Eleni, and his two brothers Dimitris and Stelios. He strongly embraced the belief that good wine is made in the vineyard. The vineyards cover 25ha and are located at an altitude of 400-600m. There is a strong Mediterranean influence here, along with considerable rainfall. The combination of surrounding hills, the crystal gypsum, limestone and quartz rich soils, along with the uninterrupted exposure to the winds of the valley, are moderating factors during the growing season. Makarounas Winery is the only winery in Cyprus that sources grapes solely from their privately-owned vineyards. Xynisteri is the main white Cypriot grape producing light wines that are fresh and clean. Look for notes that nod towards citrus pith, white flower blossom and lemon with a clear mineral backbone.
Drink now and 12 months.
Lumé Trebbiano d’Abruzzo 2023, Ilauri
Trebbiano d'Abruzzo is the dry, white wine counterpart to the red Montepulciano d'Abruzzo. It is the only DOC in the Abruzzo region of Central Italy specialising exclusively in white wine. The presence of ‘Trebbiano d'Abruzzo’ was documented in 1856 by Raffaele Sersante. He observed how popular the grape, likely today's Trebbiano Abruzzese, had become in the region's vineyards. The grape varieties used are a more complex group than might be supposed from the DOC title. According to the DOC laws, a Trebbiano d'Abruzzo must be made from at least 85% of Trebbiano Toscano and/or Trebbiano Abbruzzese (also commonly known as Trebbiano d'Abruzzo) and/or Bombino Bianco. Although potentially confusing – Trebbiano Toscano is considered a distinct variety from Trebbiano Abbruzzese. While Trebbiano Abbruzzese is thought by some to be identical to Bombino Bianco (although this has yet to be confirmed by DNA analysis). In reality, the ruling effectively allows any majority combination of the three. Look for notes of white flowers and citrus fruits with a lively acidity and defined structure.
This is an everyday drinker that is ideal to drink now.
Piemonte Barbera 2022, Antonio Vallana e Figlio
Vallana hails from Alto Piemonte in the top north-west corner of Italy, 100km north of Barolo, towards the border with Switzerland. The region benefits from a broader diurnal temperature shift compared to its neighbour, Barolo, with harvesting often commencing c.10 days later. This climate, combined with the volcanic, acid soils in the area, offers wines with fine acidity, minerality and ageing capacity. This estate is now run by the fifth generation, sister and brother, Marina and Francis Fogarty, Their great-grandfather Antonio and grandfather, Bernardo, formerly established the family business as Antonio Vallana e Figlio, following on from Antonio’s uncle, who inherited the estate in 1859. He had seen the market potential to commercially produce and sell wines for export to Germany and Switzerland, capitalising on the newly opened (1905) Simplon Railway Tunnel. This is their unoaked, accessible Barbera, which Marina describes as having good acidity and a juicy, red fruit flavour profile. This fresh, young style is fermented and stored in concrete before bottling.
Drink from 2025-2027.
Fire and Ice Shiraz 2019, Brand & Sons
Coonawarra is usually known for its Cabernet Sauvignon, but the region also produces excellent Shiraz. It is the most southerly of all mainland Australia’s wine growing regions. Isolated, it’s located in the extreme south-east of South Australia, between the towns of Mount Gambier and Naracooorte. It’s nearer to the border with Victoria, than to the state capital, Adelaide (a c.400+km drive away). Sitting at 60m above sea level, temperatures are mild compared to the rest of the country due, primarily, to its low elevation and proximity to the sea and it is certainly much cooler than Barossa. It is also seen as a wet region with annual rainfall that sits around 65cm. Its isolation and terra rossa soil give Coonawarra an added advantage of being phylloxera-free. This wine is named after an event in the early 1960s. A week of sub-zero temperatures forced the locals to employ ‘frost pots’ in the vineyard to keep the chill from the young vines. A glow filled the sky as the pots were lit and the vineyards were ablaze with the warmth of the fires pushing back against the cold. It is a blend of Glenroy (northern Coonawarra) and central Coonawarra fruit. Crushed into stainless steel tanks with 10% of the juice run-off to help concentration. It had a 24 hour maceration before a seven day fermentation. Transferred to 25% new French and American oak and aged for 18 months. The nose and palate are layered with blue and purple fruit, mocha and spice, with black cherry and plum. Full bodied, warm and succulent.
Drink now to 2027.
Break a Leg Merlot 2023, Van Loggernberg Wines
Van Loggerenberg Wines is a family-run winery based in Paarl, making low-intervention, site-specific wines from vineyards mainly in the Stellenbosch and Swartland appellations. The wines are made by Lukas Van Loggernberg. 65% of this wine is from a vineyard in the Stellenbosch Kloof Valley planted on rich, decomposed granite soils with a topsoil of koffieklip. The remaining 35% is from a vineyard planted in Devon Valley in Stellenbosch. This area is known for its clay rich soils which produces wines with great structure. Lukas believes that Stellenbosch is the best region in South Africa for Merlot. All grapes were destemmed, and fermented naturally, with one long pump over daily for 2 weeks. The fermented grapes were lightly pressed, and the wine went through malolactic fermentation in 3rd fill Frenchbarrels. After that the wines were racked and returned to barrel for ageing. No enzymes or commercial yeast was used in making the wines. The nose shows red and black berries with subtle hints of violets and fresh herbs, while the palate has good fruit concentration, bright acidity and supple tannins.
Perfect to drink now to 2028.